Short answer: Look for five things: a permanent local business address, an active state license, both general liability and workers’ comp insurance, manufacturer certifications, and at least three real references from jobs done in the last two years. If a contractor can’t produce all five in writing, keep looking.
I’ve watched homeowners get burned the same way for thirty years. Not because they didn’t ask questions, but because they asked the wrong ones. “How much will it cost” comes first. The questions that actually protect you come second, and by then the deposit is already written.
Start With a Permanent Address
A real roofing company has a building you can drive to. Not a P.O. box, not a magnetic sign on a pickup truck, not a phone number that goes to voicemail. Storm chasers and fly-by-night operators hate physical addresses because they make accountability possible.
Before you call anyone, look up the address. Is it a real commercial location, or is it a house in a residential neighborhood with no signage? Has the company been at that address for more than a year? Google Street View tells you a lot in 30 seconds.
License and Insurance Are Two Different Things
A license proves the contractor passed the state’s qualifications and posted a bond. Insurance proves they can pay for it if something goes wrong on your job. You need both, and they have to be current.
In Maryland, every home improvement contractor needs an MHIC license. In Virginia, it’s a Class A, B, or C contractor license depending on job size. Each state has a free public lookup tool. Use it. Make sure the name on the license matches the name on the truck and the name on the contract.
For insurance, ask for a certificate of insurance with you listed as the certificate holder. That makes your insurance company a notified party if their policy lapses mid-job. You want general liability covering at least $1 million per occurrence and workers’ comp covering anyone who sets foot on your property. If a worker falls off your roof and there’s no workers’ comp, your homeowners insurance becomes the first line of defense, and that ends badly.
Manufacturer Certifications Tell You Something
The big shingle manufacturers like CertainTeed, GAF, and Owens Corning all have tiered certification programs. Becoming a Select ShingleMaster, Master Elite, or Platinum Preferred contractor takes years of clean installation history, training requirements, and insurance minimums. The manufacturer is essentially vouching that this contractor knows how to install their product correctly.
These certifications also unlock extended warranties that an uncertified contractor can’t offer. We’re a CertainTeed Select ShingleMaster, which is why we can offer the SureStart PLUS warranty on our installs. That warranty covers labor, materials, and tear-off costs if something goes wrong. A standard manufacturer warranty covers materials only, prorated, and excludes the cost of removing the bad shingles.
Real References, Recent Jobs
Ask for three references from jobs completed within the last two years and older than 5 years, in your zip code or an adjacent one. Then call them. Ask three things: Did they show up when they said they would? Would you hire them again for a different project? Did you have any problems on the job and if so, how did they handle them?
Two out of three yes answers (or answers that make you feel comfortable) is the threshold. All three is a winner. One out of three or worse, walk away. And if a contractor can’t produce three references, they don’t have a track record yet, and you don’t want to be the one teaching them.
The Contract Is the Deal
Get everything in writing before you pay anything. The contract should list scope of work in specifics, the exact materials including manufacturer and product line, start date and estimated completion, warranty terms for both materials and workmanship, payment schedule, and what happens if rotted decking shows up once the old roof is off.
A serious contractor has a contract they hand you. A contractor who writes terms on a yellow legal pad in your driveway is telling you everything you need to know.
The roofer you want is the one who’s still going to be in business in five years when you have a warranty question. The cheapest bid often isn’t that contractor.




